ERITREA: Behind the silence of Africa’s most secretive state
- Paul Aage Hegvik
- Jun 7
- 16 min read
Updated: Jun 10
Eritrea is a rugged and fascinating nation in the Horn of Africa, bordered by the Red Sea and steeped in ancient history.
Once part of the powerful Aksumite Kingdom and later an Italian colony, Eritrea fought one of Africa’s longest independence wars before becoming a sovereign state in 1993. From the modernist streets of Asmara to the untouched islands of the Dahlak Archipelago, Eritrea blends striking architecture, dramatic landscapes, and rich cultural diversity.
Despite political isolation, the country holds a strong sense of national identity and pride, with deep traditions, multilingual heritage, and one of the longest coastlines on the African continent.
General information
Official name: State of Eritrea
Location: Horn of Africa, bordered by Sudan, Ethiopia, and Djibouti
Capital: Asmara
Language: Tigrinya (official), Arabic, English (working); other local languages include Tigre, Afar, Saho
Ethnic groups: Tigrinya (55%), Tigre (30%), Saho, Afar, Bilen, Kunama, Nara
Religion: Islam (Sunni), Christianity (mainly Eritrean Orthodox), Roman Catholic, Lutheran
Calling code: +291
Currency: Nakfa (ERN)
Total area: 117,600 km²
Land area: 101,000 km²
National dishes: Zigni (spicy stew), Injera, Tsebhi, Shiro, Hilbet
Highest point: Emba Soira (3,018 m)
Lowest point: Danakil Depression (~-75 m)
Largest lake: Lake Kulul
Largest river: Gash River
Longest mountain range: Eritrean Highlands
Largest desert: Danakil Desert
Largest island: Dahlak Kebir Fact: Emba Soira is the highest mountain in Eritrea. It is about 9,902ft tall, located in the Eritrean highlands, and showcases some of Eritrea's most beautiful scenery.
Largest volcano: Nabro Volcano
Deepest ocean trench: Not applicable
Largest waterfall: None significant
Largest coral reef: Dahlak Archipelago reefs
Largest bay: Anfile Bay
Largest canyon: Barka Gorge
Largest gulf: Gulf of Zula
Longest coastline: ~2,234 km (Red Sea)
Largest archipelago: Dahlak Archipelago
Largest glacier: None
Longest river delta: None significant
Largest peninsula: Buri Peninsula
Largest national park: Gash-Setit Wildlife Reserve
Water area: ~16,600 km² (mostly coastal)
Climate: Hot and arid along the coast; cooler in highlands; semi-arid inland
Geographical features: Mountains, desert, coastline, volcanic fields, high plateaus
Environmental issues: Deforestation, desertification, overgrazing, limited water resources
Biodiversity: Marine diversity (Red Sea), endemic mammals, and birds
Conservation efforts: Marine protected zones in the Dahlak Archipelago; limited formal programs
Government & politics
Government Type: Unitary one-party presidential republic
Head of State: President Isaias Afwerki (since 1993) Isaias Afwerki, Eritrea’s first and only president since independence in 1993, is widely regarded as one of the most authoritarian leaders in the world. Under his rule, Eritrea has no functioning constitution, no independent press, and has never held a national election. Mandatory indefinite national service, widespread surveillance, and arbitrary detention have drawn international condemnation, earning the country the nickname «Africa’s North Korea.» While once hailed as a liberation hero, Afwerki now presides over a tightly controlled state with little tolerance for dissent.
National Day: May 24 (Independence Day)
Political Structure: Single-party system with no recent national elections
Corruption Index: Ranked 173 out of 180 countries in 2024
LGBTQ+ Rights: Homosexuality is criminalized
Gender Equality: Challenges persist; data is limited
Press Freedom Ranking: Eritrea is considered one of the most repressive countries for press freedom
Foreign Relations: Member of the African Union, United Nations, and Intergovernmental Authority on Development
Disaster Response: Limited infrastructure and resources for disaster management.
Economy & industry
GDP (2023): Approximately $2.3 billion
GDP per Capita: Approximately $567
Main industries: Agriculture, mining (gold, copper, zinc), and services
Unemployment rate: Data not readily available
Main exports: Gold, livestock, sorghum, textiles
Tourism income: Minimal due to limited infrastructure and travel restrictions
Ease of doing business index: Not ranked in recent reports
Cryptocurrency adoption: No significant adoption reported
Demographics & society
Population (2025 est.): Approximately 6.4 million
Age structure: Youthful population with a high birth rate
Median age: Approximately 19 years
Life expectancy: Around 65 years
Human rights: Reports indicate significant human rights concerns
Crime rate: Data is limited; petty crimes reported
Happiness index: Not ranked in recent global reports
Education ranking: Data is limited; challenges in access and quality
Healthcare system: Basic services available; limited resources
Alcohol consumption: Low per capita consumption
Tobacco use: Data is limited
Top universities: University of Asmara (currently non-operational); other institutions include Eritrea Institute of Technology
Healthcare challenges: Limited infrastructure and resources
Infrastructure & transportation
Main Airports:
Asmara International Airport
Massawa International Airport
Assab International Airport
Teseney Airport
Agordat Airport
Nakfa Airport
Number of airports: At least six operational airports
Railways: Approximately 306 km; primarily the Asmara-Massawa line
Main ports: Massawa and Assab
Public transport: Limited; primarily buses and minibuses in urban areas
Traffic congestion index: Data not available
Cycling infrastructure: Minimal infrastructure for cyclists
Waste management: Challenges with waste collection and disposal
Security & technology
Military expenditure: Data not publicly disclosed
Number of active personnel: Exact numbers not available; national service is mandatory
International alliances: Member of the African Union and United Nations
Terrorism threat: No significant threats reported
Drug problems: Data is limited
Cybersecurity readiness: Limited infrastructure and policies
Internet penetration: Low; estimated at around 1%
AI & tech industry: Nascent stage; minimal development
Patents & innovations: Data not available
E-commerce growth: Very limited
Research & development: Minimal investment and activity The rich history of Eritrea
Eritrea's history is deeply intertwined with significant ancient civilizations and diverse cultures.
Ancient ties to the Kingdom of Aksum: Eritrea was profoundly influenced by the Aksumite Kingdom, an early empire that flourished between 1st to 7th centuries CE. It served as a critical trading hub between Africa, Arabia, and the Mediterranean, exporting ivory, gold, and incense.
Colonized by Italy in the late 1800s: The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw Italian colonization, when some of Eritrea's most remarkable architecture was developed.
Part of Ethiopia (1952): In the mid-20th century, Eritrea was federated with Ethiopia, leading to a prolonged struggle for independence.
Independence attained in 1993: After a long and brutal 30-year war, Eritrea obtained independence from Ethiopia in 1993.
Border war with Ethiopia (1998–2000): Tensions with Ethiopia flared up into conflict, but a peace deal was signed in 2018, bringing hope for reconciliation.
«Eritrea’s struggle for independence is one of the longest and most determined liberation movements in Africa.» Alex de Waal British academic and African affairs expert
Modern identity in Eritrea
Eritrea's identity today is shaped by its turbulent history, deeply rooted traditions, and unique cultural practices.
Eritrea is known for its diverse population, with various ethnic groups contributing to its rich cultural tapestry. Each ethnic group has its own languages, customs, and traditions that play a vital role in national identity.
Despite challenges, the country boasts remarkable achievements in community resilience and cultural heritage. The people of Eritrea have maintained a profound sense of pride and independence, drawing from their history and the struggles they have endured.
The vibrant tapestry of Eritrean society also includes influenced culture from Italian heritage, particularly evident in architecture and cuisine. Traditional practices, including coffee ceremonies, are deeply embedded in daily life and social interactions, showcasing Eritreans' profound hospitality.
Attractions - A glimpse of wonders
Asmara: The modernist capital
Asmara, the capital of Eritrea, is a city that captivates with its unique charm. It sits high in the central highlands at an elevation of 2,325 meters, offering a cool climate that contrasts with the arid lowlands.
Asmara is famous for its remarkably preserved Italian modernist architecture. This cultural legacy from the late 1800s to the 1940s earned it the nickname «Africa’s Little Rome.» In 2017, Asmara was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its exceptional collection of architectural styles.
Iconic landmarks, such as the Fiat Tagliero Building shaped like an airplane and Cinema Impero, reflect the city's architectural significance. The peaceful, walkable city is lined with palm trees, lively cafés, and vibrant markets like the Medeber Market, showcasing a mix of local craftsmanship and culinary delights.
The Dahlak archipelago: A marine paradise
The Dahlak Archipelago consists of over 120 islands in the Red Sea. It's known for its untouched coral reefs, crystal-clear waters, and abundance of marine life. These islands are a dream for divers and snorkelers who can explore pristine reefs and spot dolphins, sea turtles, and an array of rare fish species.
The archipelago's remote location ensures most of the islands remain uninhabited. Accessible by boat from Massawa, this tranquil setting offers a perfect escape into nature.
Qohaito ruins: Echoes of the past
The Qohaito ruins are pressing reminders of Eritrea's rich historical backdrop. Located on a high plateau, this ancient pre-Aksumite and Aksumite city dates back over 2,000 years. Once bustling with trade activities, it had remarkable connections with Africa, Rome, and Arabia.
Archaeologists have uncovered temples, burial mounds, and stone pillars. The structures are remnants of a thriving civilization and present invaluable insights into Eritrea's early history.
Massawa: A unique port city
Massawa, often called the «Pearl of the Red Sea,» is another highlight. A historic port city, it is renowned for its blend of Ottoman, Egyptian, and Italian colonial architecture. Once the capital of Italian Eritrea, Massawa is a gateway to the Dahlak Archipelago.
Visitors to Massawa are treated to a unique atmosphere, characterized by narrow alleys, mosques, and traditional architecture. Key landmarks include the Sheikh Hanafi Mosque and the Imperial Palace ruins, reflecting its rich historical significance.
Cultural significance of the Debre Bizen monastery
Debre Bizen Monastery is a vital religious site. Founded in 1361, the monastery is set high in the eastern highlands. It is a center for preserving centuries-old religious texts and manuscripts within the Eritrean Orthodox Tewahedo Church Tradition.
Reaching the monastery demands a challenging trek, emphasizing the devotion present among its visitors. It also offers breathtaking views, contributing to the awe that surrounds this historic site.
In conclusion, Eritrea offers a profound exploration of rich historical narratives and stunning landscapes. The resilience of its people shines brightly against a backdrop of cultural complexity. As travelers embark on a journey through this unique nation, they will find not just natural beauty but also the enduring spirit of a people shaped by their past and eager to share their story with the world.
Asmara–Massawa Railway
The Asmara–Massawa Railway is one of Africa’s most remarkable colonial-era engineering feats. Built by Italian authorities between 1887 and 1932, the narrow-gauge line climbs from the coastal city of Massawa to the highland capital of Asmara, covering 117 kilometers and ascending over 2,300 meters. The route features 65 bridges, 39 tunnels, and dramatic switchbacks through rugged mountain terrain.
Once a vital economic and military artery, the railway fell into disrepair during Eritrea’s long conflict for independence. In the 2000s, Eritrean workers began restoring sections of the track using original methods and salvaged parts. Today, parts of the line operate heritage steam trains for tourists, offering a rare glimpse into early 20th-century rail travel and the dramatic landscapes of the Horn of Africa.
10 lesser-known facts about Eritrea
1. Eritrea has never held a national election
Since gaining independence in 1993, Eritrea has not held a single national election. The promised democratic constitution, ratified in 1997, was never implemented.
2. Asmara has one of the best-preserved collections of modernist architecture in the world
Built by Italians in the 1930s, Eritrea’s capital is home to stunning futurist, Art Deco, and rationalist buildings — earning it UNESCO World Heritage status in 2017.
3. National service is mandatory — and often indefinite
Young Eritreans are required to serve in national military or civil service for an undefined period, often lasting for many years, prompting mass youth migration.
4. Internet access is among the lowest in the world
Fewer than 2% of Eritreans have access to the internet, and independent news websites are blocked. Most people rely on state-run media or smuggled information.
5. Eritrea uses its own currency, the nakfa — and has no ATMs
The nakfa is a closed currency with strict controls. There are no functioning ATMs for foreign visitors, and credit cards are essentially useless.
6. It’s one of the few African countries with no foreign military presence
Despite its strategic Red Sea location, Eritrea has rejected permanent foreign bases — unlike neighboring Djibouti, which hosts U.S., French, and Chinese forces.
7. Eritrea has nine officially recognized ethnic groups
These include the Tigrinya, Tigre, Afar, Saho, Bilen, Kunama, Nara, Rashaida, and Beja — each with distinct languages, cultures, and traditions.
8. The Dahlak Archipelago is a hidden paradise with ancient Islamic graves
The islands off the Red Sea coast are virtually untouched and contain some of the oldest Islamic cemeteries in Africa, along with coral reefs and marine biodiversity.
9. Eritrea banned female genital mutilation (FGM) in 2007
It was one of the first African countries to criminalize the practice, backed by grassroots education campaigns and women's health advocates.
10. The entire coastline was declared an environmental protection zone
In 2006, the Eritrean government designated the entire Red Sea coastline — nearly 1,200 kilometers — as protected, in an effort to preserve marine and coastal ecosystems.
Special stories about Eritrea
The women fighters of Eritrea During the war for independence, women made up nearly a third of the liberation army. They carried rifles, led battalions, and ran field hospitals — helping redefine gender roles in Eritrean society. But after independence, the promises of equality faded.
«We were told we were building a new kind of society,» said Meaza G., a former EPLF fighter interviewed by a diaspora radio station. «Now we are silent — we’re invisible in the country we helped to free.»
While some former fighters went on to lead ministries or community organizations, many struggled to reintegrate, finding themselves in conservative roles and with little public recognition. Their legacy lives on more in memory than in policy.
Asmara: Africa’s forgotten modernist capital Asmara, once the jewel of Italy’s fascist empire in Africa, is now a stunning architectural time capsule. Its broad boulevards, Deco cinemas, and streamlined petrol stations survived war and time — but sit in eerie quiet.
«It’s like walking through a museum where nothing has changed since 1938,” said Anna R., an Italian-Eritrean architect who visited the city in 2019. “It’s breathtaking — and strangely still.»
Though UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site, very few international visitors ever see it. Limited visas, tight surveillance, and political isolation have kept Asmara a ghost city of global modernism — intact, but almost forgotten.
The railway that refused to die Once a marvel of colonial engineering, the Asmara–Massawa railway was bombed, looted, and abandoned. But in the early 2000s, a group of Eritrean railway workers began rebuilding it — without external aid.
«We used old blueprints and our memories,» said Tekleab H., a former railway mechanic. «No foreign experts. Just us and what we had left.»
Steam trains now run occasionally on restored stretches, carrying tourists and schoolchildren. For many Eritreans, the railway represents what the country could be — resourceful, proud, and self-reliant — if allowed to breathe.
Whispered airwaves: Eritrea’s underground listeners In a country where the press is state-controlled and internet access is among the lowest in the world, many Eritreans turn to shortwave radio broadcasts from the diaspora — often at night, in secret.
«We close the windows and keep the volume low,» said Dawit, a young man in Keren who listens to Voice of Eritrea broadcasts from Sweden. «We just want to know what’s really happening.»
The government frequently jams these signals. But for many, they remain a fragile lifeline to alternative viewpoints and global news — a quiet act of rebellion against enforced silence.
The vanishing fishermen of the Red Sea Once central to coastal life, Eritrea’s traditional fishing culture is vanishing. The Red Sea’s bounty has dwindled, and local fishers now face government restrictions, lack of equipment, and generational decline.
«My father fed ten people from this boat,» said Selam, a former fisherman’s daughter in Massawa. «Now, no one fishes. My brothers are in national service or abroad.»
Foreign fishing contracts, climate change, and urban migration have turned once-busy harbors into rusting shorelines. What remains are stories, fading skills, and the memory of a sea that once sustained entire communities.
Born into service: The sife of Eritrea’s youth National service in Eritrea is supposed to last 18 months, but in practice it can stretch for years — even decades. Many young Eritreans see it as an open-ended prison.
«I haven’t seen my hometown in five years,» said Yohannes, a 23-year-old conscript stationed near the Sudanese border. «I don’t even know if I’ll ever be released.»
The indefinite nature of service — combined with poor pay, forced labor, and limited freedom — drives thousands of youth to flee the country every year, often facing dangerous journeys through Sudan and Libya.
The diaspora that can’t go home Eritreans in the diaspora — many of whom left during the war or in the decades since — remain deeply connected to their homeland. But returning can carry risk.
«I dream of seeing my mother’s house again,» said Samrawit, an Eritrean nurse in Canada. «But I can’t go back. I spoke out once — that’s enough to be watched.»
Some who return are pressured to pay a 2% diaspora tax or attend regime events. Others fear detention at the airport. For many, exile has become a permanent reality, with «home» more memory than possibility. Notable figures
Helen Meles - a singer and actress
Helen Meles is one of Eritrea’s most celebrated artists — a singer, actress, and former member of the EPLF’s cultural troupe during the country’s war for independence. Her powerful voice and patriotic lyrics became emblematic of the liberation struggle, and her music remains deeply rooted in themes of identity, sacrifice, and resilience. After independence, Helen rose to national fame with a blend of traditional and contemporary Tigrinya songs, and later expanded her influence through film. Today, she is not only a cultural icon but a living link between Eritrea’s revolutionary past and its artistic present.
Tiffany Haddish - American actress and comedian of Eritrean descent Tiffany Haddish rose to fame with her breakout role in Girls Trip, but her personal journey goes far beyond the spotlight. Born in Los Angeles to an Eritrean father, Haddish reconnected with her roots in 2018 when she traveled to Eritrea to bury her father’s remains. During the visit, she was granted Eritrean citizenship and embraced by the public during Independence Day celebrations.
Since then, she has proudly represented her heritage, using her platform to highlight Eritrea’s culture and diaspora. Her story is one of resilience, identity, and the power of rediscovery.
Saba Kidane - Freedom fighter, jounalist and poet
Saba Kidane is an Eritrean poet, journalist, and former freedom fighter whose work captures the complexities of war, womanhood, and post-independence identity. A member of the Eritrean People’s Liberation Front during the country’s fight for independence, she emerged as a leading cultural voice, writing poetry in Tigrinya that addressed themes of resilience, motherhood, and social justice.
Beyond literature, Kidane worked in radio journalism and became known for her outspoken advocacy on gender and civic issues. In 2003, she was reportedly detained by authorities, highlighting the risks faced by independent voices in Eritrea’s tightly controlled media landscape. Despite censorship, her writing remains a powerful record of one woman’s perspective on revolution and its aftermath.
Zersenay Tadese - country’s first Olympic medalist
Zersenay Tadese is Eritrea’s most accomplished athlete and the country’s first Olympic medalist, winning bronze in the 10,000 meters at the 2004 Athens Games. A quiet yet formidable competitor, he dominated the half marathon for nearly a decade, winning five world titles and setting a world record in 2007 that stood for over ten years.
Hailing from the town of Adi Bana, Tadese helped put Eritrea on the global athletics map and inspired a generation of East African runners beyond the traditional Ethiopian and Kenyan powerhouses. His endurance and discipline made him a national icon.
Official websites
Government: Ministry of Information
Tourism: Ministry of Tourism
